The world of skincare is always changing, with a wide range of products available for use. It can be overwhelming to sift through the different options until you find what skincare ingredients are right for your skin.
That’s why we’ve created this guide! Consider this your treasure map as you explore different skincare ingredients.
Common Skincare Ingredients
1. Hyaluronic Acid
What: Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring hydrator, which attracts and maintains moisture in the skin. This ingredient helps make your skin flexible which in turn promotes plumper and more youthful skin.
How: Hyaluronic acid is best applied as a serum after cleansing while the skin is still damp. After the serum is applied, moisturizer should be used to assist with sealing the hydration. Another option is the use of a moisturizer that includes hyaluronic acid.
Who should: Hyaluronic acid is ideal for all skin types, especially those seeking hydration without the heaviness.
Who shouldn’t: Do not use hyaluronic if you are undergoing radiation therapy or have scleroderma. Also isn’t enough research to know the impacts of this ingredient when pregnant or breastfeeding.
2. Retinol (Vitamin A)
What: Retinol is a retinoid made from vitamin A which works to promote skin cell turnover. This means that small retinol molecules can work through the layers of the skin to boost elastin and collagen.
How: Once the skin has been cleansed and dried retinol can be applied as a cream, gel, or serum. Moisturizer should then be applied over the top of retinol once it has settled into the skin. When using retinol it is crucial to include sunblock/sunscreen in your routine (retinol makes your skin more sensitive to sun damage).
Who should: Retinol is great for treating fine lines, wrinkles, sun spots/sun damage, uneven skin texture, and hyperpigmentation.
Who shouldn’t: Do not use if you have sensitive skin, eczema, rosacea, food intolerances, young skin, or high allergic reactions. Also, be wary of using retinol if frequently spending time in the sun.
3. Vitamin C
What: Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that fights harmful free radicals from damaging the skin. This results in brighter skin, reduced hyperpigmentation, and less environmental damage.
How: This ingredient is most impactful in a serum form (although other application types are available). After gently cleansing the face in the morning, apply a few drops of a vitamin C serum. Follow up with moisturizer and sunblock/sunscreen.
Who should: Vitamin C is great for those seeking a more radiant complexion, to lessen the appearance of dark spots, and provide overall skin protection.
Who shouldn’t: Topical vitamin C is not recommended for children or those with sensitive skin. Some people find vitamin C to be irritating for their skin, so be sure to patch test first.
More information about vitamin C Here >>>
4. Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
What: Niacinamide is a specific nutrient that is not produced in the human body and therefore must be topically applied or consumed. It improves the strength of the skin, helps to smooth skin texture, regulates oil production, and reduces redness and inflammation.
How: Niacinamide can be applied as a serum to freshly cleansed and dry skin. Another alternative is the inclusion of niacinamide in other products, including makeup setting spray, overnight mask, moisturizer, or sunblock/sunscreen. Ideally niacinamide would be applied twice per day, once in the morning and again in the evening.
Who should: The best results are often seen in those with oily or acne-prone skin. Although all skin types can benefit, particularly those with concerns like enlarged pores and redness.
Who shouldn’t: Niacinamide is not recommended for those with preexisting allergies due to the ingredient’s ability to cause the body to release histamine. People with sensitive skin are recommended to use with precaution and patch test first.
5. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
What: AHAs are a type of chemical exfoliants that reduce calcium ions in the skin, causing the skin to shed skin cells at a surface level. Examples of AHAs include; glycolic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and lactic acid. AHAs are considered a more intensive form of chemical exfoliation than most BHAs.
How: AHA chemical exfoliants can be used after skin cleanser and toner. Start by using twice a week and then build up to a maximum of every second day. Other serums, moisturizers and sunblock/sunscreen can be applied after the AHAs.
Who should: AHAs are ideal for smoothing irregular texture, reducing fine lines, and achieving a brighter complexion. They are best used to treat scars, melanoma, hyperpigmentation, roughness, and age spots.
Who shouldn’t: AHAs are not recommended for dry or sensitive skin. Also, be careful using AHAs with vitamin C or retinol products as this combination will likely increase irritation.
6. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
What: BHAs are another type of chemical exfoliant that is considered to be slightly milder than AHAs. However, these exfoliants can penetrate deeper into the pores, making them favourable for acne treatment and oil control. Some examples include; salicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, tropic acid, and trethocanic acid. Salicylic acid is especially favourable for acne because of its antibacterial effects.
How: Apply BHAs after cleansing and toning. Then continue with the application of other products as per the regular skincare routine. BHAs can also be used in the form of a cleanser, toner, or overnight treatment. The regularity of treatment depends on the individual’s skin tolerance and concentration of the product.
Who should: BHAs are most effective for those with oily acne-prone skin. BHAs target clogged pores and breakouts.
Who shouldn’t: BHAs are not recommended for dry or sensitive skin. Similar to AHAs, BHAs can irritate the skin when used alongside vitamin C or retinol products.
7. Peptides
What: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that make up proteins. These small proteins are included to increase collagen production, help with anti-aging, assist in skin repair, retain moisture, and act as antioxidants. There are a variety of different peptides available for topical skincare use.
How: Peptides can be incorporated as a serum, moisturizer, or cream. Peptide serums are most effective when applied to damp skin after cleansing. It is also favourable for peptides to be part of a night-time routine because this is when the body naturally regenerates skin collagen and elastin.
Who should: Best for addressing signs of aging, such as fine lines and sagging skin. Most skin types can tolerate peptides, but be sure to patch test just in case!
Who shouldn’t: It is recommended that those who are pregnant or breastfeeding speak to their doctor before using peptides. Of course, those with sensitive skin should be wary when trying a new product.
8. Ceramides
What: Ceramides are oils that occur naturally in the outer layer of the skin (also known as the skin barrier). The level of ceramide in your skin barrier decreases with age, resulting in a weakened shield against external factors. So topical ceramides work to strengthen the skin barrier, helping to retain moisture and protect against external irritants.
How: A great way to add ceramides to a skincare routine is through moisturizers. After serums have been applied to the skin, a ceramide-infused moisturizer can be applied to lock in hydration. In this application format, ceramides can be used twice per day (morning and night).
Who should: Ceramides are good for dry and sensitive skin types, providing essential hydration and barrier support. Some also incorporate ceramides for anti-aging purposes.
Who shouldn’t: Most skin types can tolerate ceramides, however those with sensitive skin or a compromised skin barrier should be careful.
9. Green Tea Extract
What: A powerful antioxidant, green tea extract helps protect the skin from environmental damage and soothes inflammation. This makes green tea extract a popular choice when treating acne because it reduces oil production and assists with painful and inflamed zits/pimples.
How: Green tea extract is often applied as a face mask which is left on the skin for a set time before being removed (Sheet masks, creams, or even DIY using cold teabags). Although cleansers, toners, and moisturizers can also include green tea extract as an ingredient too.
Who should: Green tea extract is ideal for all skin types, especially those concerned with environmental stressors. Some consider green tea extract a more natural acne treatment alternative.
Who shouldn’t: Most skin types can use green tea extract topically for skincare purposes. However, if you have a known allergy to green tea then it is probably best to avoid this ingredient.
10. Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10)
What: CoQ10 is a naturally produced antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals, promoting a more youthful complexion. It is used for cell growth and maintenance within the body and can also be consumed through certain foods. Aging decreases the amount of CoQ10 that the body produces (usually decline starts after 20 years of age).
How: Many ‘anti-aging’ serums, toners, moisturizers, under-eye creams, and body lotions include CoQ10 as an ingredient. This flexibility makes it easy to add to a skincare routine. CoQ10 is also a reasonably compatible ingredient, making layering with other products more simple.
Who should: Best for those over 20 years of age looking to combat signs of aging, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. In most cases, CoQ10 is safe for use and can be used twice a day (morning and night).
Who shouldn’t: Certain skin conditions including vitiligo are not recommended to use CoQ10.
Tips for introducing new skincare ingredients
When trying new skincare ingredients, you must patch test! This means trying a small amount on the underside of your arm and waiting to see how the skin responds. If there’s no reaction during the patch test then the ingredient is fine to begin using.
As part of your skincare routine, be sure to layer wisely. Take the time to discover which ingredients are compatible and which combinations should be avoided. The order of application also matters. The skincare routine should start with lighter, thinner textures and move to heavier ones for optimal absorption.
Stay consistent with your skincare. Most ingredients require regular use to achieve their full benefits. If the results are not what you expect, research the results of others and remember that some ingredients may cause the skin to ‘purge’, and get worse before getting better. This is not always the case though, so listen to your skin and be adaptable. Remember that your skin’s needs can also change over time, and so should your skincare routine.
As always, consulting with a qualified professional is recommended for more tailored and specific advice. Advice from a dermatologist can also be useful for those with sensitive skin conditions or more complex skin concerns.
Final thoughts
Once you have an idea of the skincare ingredients that you would like to use, remember to take note of the formula’s concentration. Some products will have a higher concentration of certain ingredients to be increasingly powerful when targeting skin concerns. Depending on your needs, a strong formula may not be ideal. So keep an eye on the ingredient concentration to maintain a balance that works for you.
Remember, your skin is unique to you! So select your skincare ingredients carefully based on your individual needs.
