Recent skincare trends have seen the rise of retinoids as an anti-aging hero. A powerful ingredient like retinoid can work wonders for the skin, but some people find that the negatives outweigh the positives. So that’s where bakuchiol (buh-koo-chee-all) comes in. This new and upcoming anti-aging ingredient might be the alternative to retinoids that we’ve been waiting for. What is bakuchiol? Is it even better for anti-aging than retinoids?
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchi is a plant commonly used in traditional Indian and Chinese medicine. Babchi or Bakuchi oil is taken from the seeds of the plant, and bakuchiol is an active ingredient found within that extract, making it a natural derivative of the Bakuchi plant seeds.
Interestingly enough, in traditional Chinese medicine bakuchiol is used for strengthening weak bones. It was only in 2018 that it was clinically proven to have anti-aging properties for the skin similar to that of retinol. Since then, bakuchiol has been getting more and more attention online.
How does it work?
Bakuchiol is suggested to stimulate collagen synthesis in the skin. Since collagen is a protein that provides structural support to the skin, increased collagen production means a firmer and more youthful complexion. In addition to these supposed anti-aging abilities, bakuchiol possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Both of these factors are positive attributes of skincare which works to protect the skin barrier and support overall skin health.
Benefits of bakuchiol
- Anti-aging: may help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by promoting collagen production and improving skin elasticity.
- Antioxidant: fights and neutralizes free radicals which protects it from damage and results in more youthful skin.
- Stimulates collagen: having increased collagen in the skin helps to create more ‘bouncy’ and elastic skin.
- Antibacterial & anti-inflammatory: lessening bacteria on the skin can help decrease the likelihood of acne. Anti-inflammatory properties can help address redness by decreasing skin irritation.
- Less side effects: bakuchiol is a natural anti-aging alternative to retinoids with fewer side effects (more on that soon!).
- Suitable when pregnant or breastfeeding: retinoids/retinol products are a derivative of vitamin A, so they are not recommended for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Bakuchiol is a natural anti-aging alternative that can be considered for use during pregnancy or breastfeeding (although evidence is still limited so check with your healthcare provider).
How to apply bakuchiol
Bakuchiol can be purchased in a variety of different product formulations. The method of application depends on the product that you decide to buy! For instance, serums are applied after cleanser has been used and before moisturizer is applied. Along the same lines, a moisturizer can be used in your skincare routine after any serums. Bakuchiol is suitable for use twice a day, however is more beneficial at night when it has time to settle into the skin without interruption.
Remember that patch testing is important when considering the use of a new skincare product. Similarly, consistency is key when waiting to see the results of skincare products. For bakuchiol, consistent use for approximately 12 weeks is recommended before true results will be apparent. So be persistent and don’t give up prematurely!
So, bakuchiol or retinoids?
First, let’s clarify the difference between retinoids and retinol. ‘Retinoids’ are stronger prescription products obtained after consultation with a skin professional. ‘Retinol’ is a weaker type of retinoid which is easier to obtain and can be purchased without a prescription. Many anti-aging skincare products include retinol as an ingredient, but the use of stronger retinoids is uncommon in popular skincare brands.
When considering the use of bakuchiol instead of retinoids or retinol, consider what you currently use and why. If you are currently using a prescribed retinoid for a specific skin condition, swapping to bakuchiol might not be as effective. If you are using an ‘off the shelf’ retinol and experiencing unwanted side effects, then bakuchiol could be a great alternative.
Wondering what the side effects of retinoids/retinol are? Side effects of retinoids can include dryness, irritation, skin color changes, sunlight sensitivity, redness, swelling, crusting or bleeding. Most of these side effects can be minimized by wearing sunscreen, applying moisturizers, and using only as directed. Along with this, retinoids/retinol cannot be used when pregnant or breastfeeding. Bakuchiol provides the same anti-aging results as retinol but without the uncomfortable side effects – sounds too good to be true!
Well here’s the catch, bakuchiol is not as well-researched as retinoids/retinol. Where retinoids have been researched in depth since the 1980s, bakuchiol has only had a few clinical trials. The small amounts of research have shown positive outcomes, but there is not enough positive evidence to completely overrule the anti-aging power of retinoids.
Put simply, bakuchiol is a great anti-aging alternative if your skin cannot tolerate retinoids. If you have a specific skin condition that needs treating, retinoids might be favourable because there’s more evidence to back it up.
Tips and tricks
When choosing a new product to use as part of your skincare routine, make sure you read the ingredients carefully. Bakuchiol is different to bakuchiol oil and babchi oil! Pure bakuchiol is extracted in a way that makes it safe for skincare use. Oils are cheaper to produce, have higher levels of photosensitizers, and don’t achieve the anti-aging results that many are trying to accomplish. Also, the handful of clinical studies that are available were based on the effects of pure bakuchiol, not oil extracts.
Just as you need to be careful choosing the right ingredients, be sure to choose the right level of concentration. You should not be using more than a 1% concentration of bakuchiol. When using this ingredient for anti-aging take a ‘slow and steady’ approach rather than ‘hard and fast’. Looking for a higher concentration is likely to mean a harsher treatment and possibly damage to the skin barrier (which isn’t going to help your skin in regards to aging).
For those using a retinol product and wanting to try bakuchiol without altering their normal routine – don’t worry! Due to these ingredients having a different structural makeup, they can be used together. They will complement one another and heighten your anti-aging skincare routine.
Final thoughts
Anti-aging is a challenging realm of skincare with an overwhelming number of options. The most difficult part is that aging skin isn’t a condition that can be treated, it’s inevitable! With options like retinoids and bakuchiol, improving visible signs of aging is more achievable than ever before.
As mentioned earlier, don’t throw out your retinoids/retinol just yet. Although – maybe you’d like to give bakuchiol a try? This ingredient does present as a new natural alternative in the anti-aging skincare world. Hopefully more clinical studies will be completed to truly convince us that bakuchiol is the way forward.
